#30 Boston - Snow in Germany, Finally - December 30 2005
Phew! Just under the wire - the snow made it here on the 2nd Christmas Day, late afternoon. Everyone was excited, so we had to make a quick exit for the outdoors and go for yet another walk that day. It has continued to snow off and on since, everything looks like winter wonderland, and the weather forecasters tell us that more is on the way. They also projected that we will ring in the New Year with a bone-chilling cold, so what's not to like?A first glimpse of that cold front was apparent on Wednesday, when I joined my friends Gitta, Joachim, Lucia, Ursula and Manfred for cross-country skiing up in the Black Forest (Schwarzwald - http://www.schwarzwald.de/). Leaving the Muenstertal Valley (http://www.muenstertal.de/de/index/index.php4) you would have not been prepared for the massive amount of snow up on the mountain, but we were pleasantly surprised by absolutely perfect skiing conditions. Arctic temperatures of minus 10 degrees Celsius hit us smack in the face as we exited the car and for the first mile of our trek I had to stop frequently to do finger calisthenics and at least make some feeble attempt to stop the pain.
Our choice for cross-country skiing was the area of Hohentann, just a smidgen below the Belchen Mountain (http://www.belchen-seilbahn.de/), with 1415 meters one of the key peaks of the Black Forest. It is considered by many the prettiest of the summits, and affords spectacular views of the Rhine River Valley, the Vosges in France and on a clear day the Swiss Alps (of course). The cross country trails (Loipen in German) were perfectly laid out and led us through a stunning snow-covered and very picturesque pine forest. We lugged about 10 kilometers (in record speed of course) before heading for lunch at the Restaurant and Hotel Wiedener Eck (www.wiedener-eck.de/ ) for some hot chocolate and local cuisine. My food of choice was a Swabian specialty, Maultaschen (http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maultaschen), kind of an oversized ravioli filled with a tasty mixture of ground meat, vegetables and spices.
This was our second cross-country skiing adventure - Gitta, her daughter Lucia and I had ventured out the week before in search of some decent trails. We decided on a route near Egerten called the Meierkopfspur (http://www.lipple.de/html/ausblicke_9.html), which rewarded us with breathtaking vistas (again) of the Rhine River Valley and decent aerobic challenges in the shape of some sizable hills.

Both trips to the Black Forest have been so tremendously enjoyable for me - rather than sitting on the couch for a week and a half and stuffing my face with every Christmas cookie within reach, I have been seeing this area in a very different light. My passion for the outdoors which has been nurtured so strongly through my hiking in New England, has provided me with a new way to spend time with friends and family when I come to visit. On that note, we headed out to cross-country ski again today, but more about that trip next week (just a little glimpse here: http://www.lipple.de/html/bildergalerie.html).
A whirlwind of activities has happened here since I wrote to you last, dinners and lunches, Christmas celebrations where pretty cool gifts were exchanged (many of them related to my outdoor activities), visits to local restaurants and even a trip to the theater. Gitta, Lucia and I took the train and headed to my old college town of Freiburg (www.freiburg.de) to attend a performance of "Die Schneekoenigin" (The Snow Queen) at the Stadttheater. (http://www.theater.freiburg.de/). It is a fairy tale by renowned Hans Christian Andersen (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hans_Christian_Andersen), who was actually born in Odense, Denmark in 1805 - he emerged as THE ultimate writer of fairy tales, including such classics as "The Princess and the Pea", "The Emperor's New Clothes" and "The Ugly Duckling". The plot was simple: snow queen is an evil old hag, in cahoots with a very greedy magistrate, they poison the mind of a charming young man, but his girlfriend with the help of some dubious characters rescues him. The End. It was a well done play with witty and captivating performances and a very young and engaged audience.
I had promised a few culinary tidbits, so here you go:
*The above mentioned "Maultaschen" (= mouth bags) derive their name (supposedly) from their place of origin, the monastery of Maulbronn, where the monks were trying to conceal the fact that they were eating meat during fasting, so they hid the meat in "dough bags". Because of this reason they were also called "Herrgottsbscheisserle" (little God cheaters). Other theories attribute the meat in the Maultaschen to the Protestants, and some say it was just a cheap copy of the Italian Ravioli. You decide.
*Dampfnudeln (or as one of my friends used to call them - "dough bombs") are sweet buns made from a yeast dough, steamed in milk and served with a fruit sauce. (http://www.sheries-kitchen.com/recipes/german/dampfnudeln.htm)
*Striebele are deep-fried strings of dough, similar to funnel cake (any questions on why I had heartburn?)
*Gluehwein is the traditional mulled wine - red wine infused with spices and citrus fruit. We drink tons of it.
*Schaeufele is a ham, and the traditional Southern German Christmas food. It is served with potato salad.
*New discovery: "warm ice" - looks like ice cream, but is whipped milk, terribly decadent, and after a few bites, too much.
My friends - I will return to Boston on Sunday, ready to see many of you again. My toes have healed nicely and I am soooo ready to run again!! I wish you all a great start into the New Year - may our friendships deepen, our adventures be many, our dreams be bigger than the sky, and our laughter and fun never stop.
Love you all.
pet:)





